20th Century Old World Charm Skirt & Cuffs
Designer: Dahlal
ITEMS YOU'll NEED:
Instructions:
The Skirt
Step 1: Fold the single coin rectangle in half crosswise (folded piece will measure approximately 30" wide by 36" long). Before you cut anything, you will want to decide how full you'd like your skirt. I usually like my finished skirts about 4-6" wider than the fullest part of my hips. Once you make your decision, cut any excess fabric off along one salvage (coined edge). (We cut a 4" piece off (not including coins) of our scarf. Note: This piece will be made into cuffs.) Then cut along the crosswise fold so you end up with two pieces which will be the front and back of your skirt.
Step 2: With right sides together, pin the side with raw edges together. Sew a 5/8" seam along the entire length of your skirt. (For a more finished look, you can make a french seam.)
Step 3: The other side will be reserved for the skirt slit. Pin wrong sides together, making sure the coin and top edges are even. Topstitch down approximately 5 - 9" depending on how high you would like your slit.
Step 4: Making the casing. After you've finished both side seams, you are ready to make the skirt casing. Take 2" hem tape and open out one quarter inch fold of the hem tape, laying it along the top raw edge of the skirt, making sure all raw edges are even. (Match the right side of the hem tape to the wrong side of the skirt.) Starting 1" in from the end of the tape, sew along the open fold of the tape, all the way around the skirt and up to the point where you began stitching. This should give you a nice 1/4" seam. Cut off the extra hem tape, leaving a 1" extension. Fold over (crosswise) the first tape extension at the end and then take the other 1/4" folded edge of the hem tape and bring it down so the folded edge lies barely over your seam. (Wrong side of tape over right side of the skirt.) Now top stitch the casing on by stitching right along the very edge of the quarter inch fold. Before sewing up the end of the tape, remember to fold over the raw edge as well. Your casing should now be complete!
Step 5: Cut a piece of 3/4" nonroll elastic approximately 25". Thread it through the opening of your casing and secure the ends of the elastic by sewing back and forth with your sewing machine.
The Cuffs
Step 6: Fold the long remnant piece in half crosswise and cut along the fold. Now fold each piece again in half crosswise and cut along the fold. You should now have four pieces approximately 17"-18" in length and approximately 3"- 4" wide. (The width will vary depending on how much you cut off of the scarf initially.) Two pieces will be used to make each cuff.
Step 7: To create two rows of coins on your cuffs, lay the first piece flat lengthwise. Then place the second piece on top, overlapping it about 1" over the top edge of the first piece. Pin it in place and topstitch along the top edge of the under piece. (You may want to finish the raw edges first before stitching to prevent it from possibly unraveling.) Repeat with the other two pieces.
Step 8: Now fold each piece, right sides together, in half crosswise. Pin the raw edges together and sew a 5/8" seam. Finish off any raw edges by zigzagging or serging them.
Step 9: Making the casing. After you've finished both side seams, you are ready to make the cuff casing. Take narrow bias tape and open out one quarter inch fold of the bias tape, laying it along the top raw edge of the cuff with right sides together, making sure all raw edges are even. Starting 1/2" in from the end of the tape, sew along the open fold of the tape, all the way around the cuff and up to the point where you began stitching. This should give you a nice 1/4" seam. Cut off the extra bias tape, leaving a 1.2" extension. Fold over (crosswise) the first tape extension at the end and then take the other 1/4" folded edge of the hem tape and bring it down so the folded edge lies over your seam. (Wrong side of tape over wrong side of cuff. The bias tape should not show on the outside of the cuff.) Now top stitch the casing on by stitching right along the very edge of the quarter inch fold. Before sewing up the end of the tape, remember to fold over the raw edge as well. Your casing should now be complete!
Step 10: Cut a piece of 1/4" or 3/8" elastic 2" less than your upper arm measurement. Thread it through the opening of your casing and secure the ends of the elastic by sewing back and forth with your sewing machine.
Coin Bra Top
Step 11: Fold one of the wraps in half lengthwise. Center it at the base of your bra in back and bring the ends in front crossing over each bra cup (spread wrap over each cup to cover). Cross once at the center between your cups and bring the remaining ends up around your neck as shown. You can either tie or pin them in place at the base of your neck.
Step 12: Wrap the other scarf around your hips and tie in place. Congratulations! Your ensemble is finished.
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