Classic Carioca Skirt

A perfect essential for all of your cabaret, folkloric or tribal accessories. Create this classic, straight style, assuit skirt in a few easy steps. This simple design uses one assuit piece. Pair it with two assuit wraps, one for the bra top and one for the hips, and you have an entire assuit ensemble!

ITEMS YOU'll NEED:

• Two Assuit Wraps
• Two Yards Authentic Assuit Fabric
• 1-1/2 Yards of Fabric Lining to Match
• Strapless Matching Color Bra or One With Clear Straps

Instructions:

1. Fold your Assuit fabric in half crosswise (folded piece will measure approximately 30" wide by 36" long). Before you cut anything, you will want to decide how full you'd like your skirt. I usually like my finished skirts about 4-6" wider than the fullest part of my hips. Once you make your decision, cut any excess fabric off along one selvage. (Note: Save this piece to cover a bra or belt for another costume component.)
2. With right sides together, pin the side with raw edges together. Sew a 5/8" seam along the entire length of your skirt. (For a more finished look, you can make a french seam.)
3. The other side will be reserved for the skirt slit. Finish these edges by turning under each edge 3/8" and topstitching along the edges. (You may also choose to leave the selvages as your finished edges.) Overlap one edge slightly over the other, making sure the top edges are even. Topstitch down approximately 5 - 9" depending on how high you would like your slit.
4. Making the casing. After you've finished both side seams, you are ready to make the skirt casing. Take 2" hem tape and open out one quarter inch fold of the hem tape, laying it along the top raw edge of the skirt, making sure all raw edges are even. (Match the right side of the hem tape to the wrong side of the skirt.) Starting 1" in from the end of the tape, sew along the open fold of the tape, all the way around the skirt and up to the point where you began stitching. This should give you a nice 1/4" seam. Cut off the extra hem tape, leaving a 1" extension. Fold over (crosswise) the first tape extension at the end and then take the other 1/4" folded edge of the hem tape and bring it down so the folded edge lies barely over your seam. (Wrong side of tape over right side of the skirt.) Now top stitch the casing on by stitching right along the very edge of the quarter inch fold. Before sewing up the end of the tape, remember to fold over the raw edge as well. Your casing should now be complete!
5. Cut a piece of 3/4" nonroll elastic approximately 25". Thread it through the opening of your casing and secure the ends of the elastic by sewing back and forth with your sewing machine.
6. At this point your skirt will be approximately 37" long before hemming. Decide how long you would like your skirt and hem accordingly by turning the bottom edge under and then under again to conceal any raw edges. Either machine or hand stitch the hem. (Note: To add an inch or two to the length, you can add any of the excess Assuit fabric you cut off in step #1 to the bottom and finish. Or you can use hem tape to finish off the bottom.
7. The lining for your skirt. Follow the same instructions for making the Assuit skirt using matching lining fabric. If you prefer having the lining attached directly to your skirt, pin the skirt lining(after it's sewn but before you've added a casing) in place along the top inside edges before sewing the casing on your Assuit skirt. Follow casing instructions.
8. Assuit bra top. Fold one of the wraps in half lengthwise. Center it at the base of your bra in back and bring the ends in front crossing over each bra cup (spread wrap over each cup to cover). Tie once at the center between your cups and bring the remaining ends up around your neck as shown. You can either tie or pin them in place at the base of your neck.
9. Fold the other wrap in half lengthwise, wrap it around your hips and tie in place. Congratulations! Your ensemble is finished.

Close Up:

Fabric Swatches: